Chef's Corner
THE BEAUTY OF OLIVE OIL
Sun, stone, drought, silence and solitude: These are the five ingredients that, according to Italian folk traditions, create the ideal habitat for the olive tree.
Homer called it “liquid gold.” In ancient Greece, athletes ritually rubbed it all over their bodies. Its mystical glow illuminated history. The olive tree, symbol of abundance, glory and peace, gave its leafy branches to crown the victorious in friendly games and in bloody war, and the oil of its fruit has anointed the noblest of heads throughout history. Olive crowns and olive branches, emblems of benediction and purification, were also ritually offered to deities and powerful figures; some were even found in Tutankhamen’s tomb. To the peoples of the Mediterranean, olive oil has been more than mere food–it has been medicinal, magical, an endless source of fascination and wonder, and a fountain of great wealth and power.
Today, olive tree groves thrive in Australia, California, France, Greece, Italy, Morocco, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, Tunisia and Turkey. Although we usually associate olive oil with Italy, the Spanish are the top producers of high-quality olive oil.
Not all oils are the same. There is a wide range of olive oils that provide a diversity of flavor, application, and processing methods. All over the culinary world, olive oil serves as a keystone for many European and western foods. Olive oils come in five primary types:
The supreme olive oils are made from olives that are hand-picked during harvests in October and November. They are immediately crushed in a mill, and oil and water are extracted from the olive fruit. The oil is filtered and left to settle before being bottled. This is called “cold-pressing,” because it is a chemical-free process that uses little pressure and no heat. This is an expensive process that is often reflected in the price.
Extra virgin olive oil uses the same process of cold-pressing, except that metal crushers are used, producing some heat and therefore slightly altering the peppery taste of the olive oil. The taste and color of these oils vary from deeper hues and more intense flavors to green-gold shades and lighter tastes. In the restaurant business we call it EVOO (that’s ee-vee-oh-oh ).
It should be mentioned that many extra virgin olive oils may meet only the minimum requirements, being inferior in quality and taste. These oils are best used for drizzling over salads and prepared dishes.
Virgin olive oil is made from riper olives that are harvested by shaking the tree and amassing the olives that have fallen off. It has a lighter color and a milder perfume than that of extra virgin oils.
Virgin olive oils are less delicate than the extra virgin oils and are best for roasting or grilling.
Pure olive oil is called “pure” only because no non-olive oils are added. The harvested olives are crushed and pressed using heat and water to obtain the most oil possible. A small amount of extra virgin oil is added to reduce the high level of acidity.
And finally there is Pomace olive oil, the least in quality of the olive oils; this variety is mixed with chemicals that remove the oil remaining in the olive grind, producing Pomace.
Like wine, there are many characteristics to olive oil. Some aromas and tastes can be defined by other food flavors and scents. For example:
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Almond: This taste can be reminiscent either of fresh raw or dried almonds, and the dried almond taste can hint at impending rancidity. Rancidness of olive oil comes about as a result of the oxidation of the monounsaturated fat into saturated fat.
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Apple: a sweet aroma that reminds one of fresh apples in the proper season.
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Artichoke: another aroma character, not as sweet as apple, somewhat like a fresh artichoke.
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Bitter: a taste that is not necessarily bad, given context. Pressing olives that aren’t quite ripe (green or turning color) causes the bitterness and, as you’d expect, the degree of bitterness depends on the ratio of ripe to not-so-ripe olives in the pressing.
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Brine: Some of the olives in the pressing have been preserved in salt water before pressing. This preservation might become necessary if the harvested olives can’t be pressed soon enough. Freshly picked olives will start to ferment quickly and need to be pressed soon after harvest.
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Chamomile: an aroma like fresh chamomile flowers.
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Citrus: an aroma with hints of orange, lemon or grapefruit.
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Cucumber: results from the oil being in metal containers for too long a time. This isn’t considered a desirable flavor characteristic by most tasters, but taste is of course subject to the individual.
Though in the culinary world there are different uses for olive oils, they all offer tremendous health benefits. Olive oil is one of the healthiest foods because of its monosaturated fatty acids (polyunsaturated fats are the ones to moderate heavily) and its content of vitamin E and antioxidants. Peoples of the Mediterranean region use olive oil as part of their daily diet, and as a result this region has had a lower incidence of heart disease, cancer and obesity than countries in other parts of the world.
One of the most well-known advantages of using olive oil is its ability to help prevent cardiovascular diseases. Of all the culinary oils, it has the highest level of monosaturated fat, which lowers cholesterol levels. Several studies have shown that it also reduces other health risks, such as diabetes, breast cancer, prostate cancer and osteoporosis, and that it helps protect the brain from aging. And to be able to do this with delicious results is just one more benefit of this ancient, multi-purpose food.
Here are a few easy recipes to try with olive oil:
Roasted garlic
2 heads of whole garlic, tops cut off
4T. good-quality olive oil, not extra virgin
Put the garlic into a small roasting pan or pie tin and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in a 300° oven for 30 minutes, or until the garlic is soft when gently squeezed. Cool slightly and squeeze the bulbs to release the garlic.
Fettunta (Tuscan garlic bread)
Thick-cut day-old Italian bread (ciabatta, como, diamante)
Raw cloves of garlic
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and fresh cracked pepper
Slice the bread to the thickness of your liking. Preferably on a grill, toast the bread. Rub the bread generously with the raw garlic and season with salt and fresh cracked pepper. Drizzle with the fruitiest, most expensive olive oil you can afford -- enjoy!
